When Napoleon invaded Venice in 1797 he was so shocked at the excesses of the annual Carnival he banned it. No wonder. In the dying days of the Venetian Republic, the festival’s decadence knew few bounds, with masked merrymakers streaming into casinos to gamble, partygoers indulging in illicit liaisons, and crowds calling for blood at bullfights. Today the pre-Lenten event is more family-friendly. But there’s still a touch of hedonism as fancy-dress parties, concerts, fashion parades and firework displays transform the city into a vast alfresco theater.
This year, the 10-day Carnival kicks off on Feb. 14. To soak up the scene before the crowds descend, visit St. Mark’s Square on the first morning. An outdoor table at the 18th century coffee-house Florian offers a ringside view of the counts, sultans and harlequins as they swan about the piazza.